The winter boot conundrum

This is a dilemma that has dogged me for many winters: how to stylishly dress my feet when it is twenty degrees below zero and blowing snow. In the past, I had two solutions: wear ugly, utilitarian boots and switch into fine Oxfords when I got to work or; wear large, cumbersome rubber galoshes over said Oxfords. I have now found a much better solution, one that combines style and performance: the Crockett & Jones Coniston boot.

Dainite rubber sole.

This boot is made for Toronto winters. It features a goodyear Dainite studded rubber sole and a storm welt. The rubber sole, manufactured by a separate British company for over 100 years, provides grip and durability while not damaging floors or tracking in dirt. The storm welt – that little extra lip of leather around the top of the sole – helps to insure that no water gets into the shoe between the sole and the upper. Then there’s the Scotch country grain leather, a process that produces a lovely embossed pebbling that speaks to the leather’s strength and longevity, because it is usually only performed on leather that is thick and hardy.

Storm welt.

What’s remarkable about the Coniston, however, is how the artisans at Crockett & Jones have combined these rugged features into a boot that is so elegant and stylish. It is built on a handsome last – #325 for the nerds – which while shapely and curved is not too tapered. This level of style creates another conundrum, of course, and that is wearing such lovely, well-crafted shoes in rough conditions. And this isn’t about price, as in “These boots are too expensive to risk wearing them.” I looked these boots over carefully when I got them, admiring the shape, the leather, the construction. It seemed a shame to scuff and crease such artisanship with wear. But, I reminded myself, that is exactly what they are made for. And in fact because they are made so well and of such good materials, they will only look better with age.

These boots also offered another learning opportunity for me. I grew up assuming that my shoe size is 10.5 wide, mostly because inexpensive off-the-rack shoes pinched my right forefoot. So, I wore “wide” shoes. The problem with this, however, is that they aren’t made wide by only expanding the forefoot horizontally. The entire volume of the shoe is increased. This meant that my shoes were too roomy in the ankle while my left forefoot – which doesn’t splay out like my right when I walk – had too much space. But then I discovered last models. These forms upon which shoes are made dictate the shape of the final product. Once you move into the quality shoe world, you will no longer find many shoes in different widths. Instead, you will find different lasts.

The Conistons I have are 10.5 in length but in a medium width – what they call an “E” – that is still roomy. But that is due to the last shape not any artificial widening of the shoe. I have read others comment that they actually size down a half size with Crockett & Jones shoes built on this last specifically because they find it a bit roomy. For me, it is perfect. My left foot is held comfortably in place while my right foot is drum tight at the toes but not pinched. The other key point I’ve discovered for my feet is the pivot point, where the shoe bends when I step. Not only does this point need to match that of your foot, there needs to be enough give so that the pivot is comfortable. On all counts, fit, comfort, durability – and of course style – the Coniston boot is a winner.

[Image courtesy of LeatherFoot Emporium]

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