The Longines Flagship watch and our search for heritage

The watch for this review was provided for a trial period by Swatch Group Canada.

My dad wore a simple dress watch when I grew up. It had a minimally decorated dial with a gold crown and band. I don’t remember much more than that but I probably like the look of vintage dress watches because I’m reminded of his. They’re what my gut tells me a grown up’s watch should look like. And while many companies today focus on the sport/tool watch market, there is a healthy resurgence in the “heritage” market, which is great for me. More and more watches are coming out that pay homage to designs of the past but with modern movements and finishing. And that means you can own something vintage-inspired without having to worry about the perils of old watches (like repairs, finding parts and general wear).

One of those companies is Longines. I have long been a fan of their watches from the past, especially their simple, uncluttered and minimalist designs. These watches, from the 40s, 50s and 60s, came from a time when Longines was not only a family company but they existed on a similar level as brands like Omega and Rolex. Since 1984, however, Longines has been part of the Swatch Group (which also owns Omega, Breguet, Blancpain and many others). It no longer lives in the upper tier of the watch world – Longines is considered “high range” by Swatch (Omega and those others are “luxury” and “prestige”) and considered mid range by most of the watch world. However, not only do some of their current watches punch above their weight in terms of design and manufacture, their heritage line includes some of the most truthful reproductions on the market.

The Lindburg Hour Angle (courtesy of Longines)

Longines has always been in the “heritage” business, to a degree: they hold the oldest continuous trademark in the watch industry, after all. And their specific heritage line of watches is not a reaction to the current trend; they’ve had it since 1987 and the Lindbergh Hour Angle, which commemorated the 60th anniversary of the watch made for the famous Atlantic crossing. Today, however, Longines creates many more heritage watches than they used to. And despite the take over by Swatch Group there is a direct connection to Longines’ history: their president, Walter von Känel, has been with the company since 1969, president since just after the acquisition.

Speaking with a Longines representative, I learned that the company is not shy about the role of heritage in their marketing strategy: they want to appeal to a younger audience by focusing on tradition, craft and investment. Yes, these are all trendy catchphrases today but Longines, like other heritage brands, are fighting the real, overwhelming currents of fast fashion and a disposable culture. And I commend them for fighting against these currents by staying as true as they can to their own history.

The watch I was given the chance to wear this past week is a shining example of that fight. The Longines Flagship Heritage is a re-issue of a classic watch from the 50s. The Flagship, however, is not an exact replica. It takes design elements from various stages of the old Flaship but that said, it captures the look of vintage watches almost perfectly. The cream dial, the simple hour markers, the dauphine hands, even the 38.5mm size (small by today’s standards) all hearken back to another era.

This watch ticks a lot of boxes when it comes to versatility in my wardrobe. The size, at 38.5mm, fits nicely on my wrist. It is big enough to look more contemporary without looking like a sport watch. It still works well with a casual wardrobe, though, thanks to the matte finished alligator strap which, by the way, has excellent sealed and buffed edge finishing. The watch is also small enough to be dressy and work with more tailored clothes. The size allows all the elements on the dial to have just enough breathing room, although I think I would have it without the date window. I know that some original versions had it as well but with the addition of the word “Automatic” and the seconds counter, there’s a lot of stuff down the middle of a watch from a brand I associate with minimal, uncluttered design.

Regardless, this is an elegant watch. The applied logo, the finishing on the hands and hour markers, even the pearlescent finish on the dial make the watch look more luxurious than its price point would suggest. In fact, the dial deserves more attention: depending on the light it can look white, cream or even beige and the finish could almost pass for enamel. The dial shines and sparkles subtly, just enough to add depth but not enough to be showy. The watch, on the whole, is obviously on the dressier side which fits my wardrobe well – it looks right with suits as well as smart polo shirts and chinos.

A big part of why this watch works for me, of course, is the vintage look. But I’ve recently started to re-think that that’s just nostalgia for my dad’s watch. An awful lot of people are growing more and more interested in heritage and tradition and that is fed, I think, by our unease about the modern world. I certainly long for elements of the past, whether that’s an appreciation for quality and craftsmanship, a love of simplicity or just life lived at a slower pace. And I think when we bring heritage items into our lives, be they watches, clothes or TV shows, we are using them as talismen against the storm of contemporary life. But before I am misunderstood, I do not desire a return to the past. It was free of our contemporary problems, yes, but we are still, as a species, much better off now than we were one hundred years ago, especially the most marginalised among us. Amidst the turmoil there is progress and a small, shining light of hope.

Hope. The future used to be full of hope. Space colonies, jet packs, the end of poverty, hunger and war, these were all dreams we were promised. In the future. We don’t feel that way anymore. Now, the future is feared. Climate change, deepening religious and political divisions as well as technology that threatens to overwhelm our humanity are believed much more likely than the utopia of Star Trek. And I think this fear of the future is at the heart of our longing for “heritage.”

The Longines Flagship with my Alfa Romeo 1931 Spider diecast car.

Once I personally came to terms with that, I realised there’s nothing wrong with placating my anxiety with these relics of another age. Nothing wrong because I am not turning away from the here and now, wanting to live in the past. Looking at a watch like the Longines Flagship reminds me of a more elegant time but brings that elegance forward to today. Because I am wearing it, and using it, now. Like the rest of my wardrobe, when I dress well I am not trying to convince myself or others to go back to a more elegant age; I am trying to make this age more elegant.

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