A few months ago, a younger friend of mine asked me for some suit shopping advice. I accompanied him to Kingpin’s Hideaway, one of my favourite spots in Toronto for vintage menswear and helped him find an excellent two-piece tweed suit. On the peg it looked his size but when he tried it on the pants hung down really low in the crotch and bunched up at the ankles. He stood there looking dishevelled and confused.
“They’re supposed to sit at your natural waist,” I told him, “you have to hike them up.” When he lifted the waistband to its proper position, he was transformed: the pants hung cleanly off his waist, elongating his legs, and the cuffs sat just perfectly on his shoes. “This feels weird,” he told me, “all this fabric around my belly.” And I realized that this guy had lived his entire 30 plus years only wearing low-rise pants.
This photo was used to mock “high-waisted” pants. But by contrasting the ridiculous with the well fitting, I don’t think it proves the point.
Before you accuse me of longing for the age of monocles and top hats, natural-waisted pants (also called “high-waisted”) are not an affectation of the past that have had their day. Pants that sit at the natural waist are just that: natural. They are most flattering for most men, if they are tailored correctly. They also work best with tailored jackets, so that when the jacket is buttoned, you don’t get that unfortunate triangle of shirt sticking out the bottom. That only serves to distract from where people are supposed to be looking: your face.
Natural-waisted pants did not pass from favour because they didn’t work. Instead, they were swept out to sea by the tsunami that is jeans. Traditionally cut low and sitting at the hips, by the 1980s more and more pants were being cut like jeans. Eventually, low-rise became so ubiquitous my friend grew up never wearing pants that fit as they should. And as he ages, chances are he will look worse and worse if all his pants are low-rise.
Natural-waisted linen suit. You can’t even tell I have a belly.
The jean cut looks best on young, slim figures. (Then again, so do natural-waisted pants). As your figure matures and weight starts to appear in the middle, low cut pants only push this bulge out further. Natural-waisted pants help to smooth the transition from the torso, over the belly, and to the legs. As a sartorially minded friend often says “your abdomen should be in your pants, not in your shirt.”
This issue has reached absurd proportions, literally, in combination with the other obsession of our age: short jackets. The poor fellow above has been stretched like Armstrong by Club Monaco. The short jacket means the button is placed much too high. Then, with the low-rise pants, he is cut into three. The gentlemen below, on the other hand, are sporting a more classic look. With their well-fitting jackets and natural-rise pants, they have are only two zones: torso and legs. Which leaves them looking well proportioned and so handsome you can’t look away.
To be fair, all of these men are quite fit. However, while a bit of weight would hardly be noticeable in traditional proportions, with ol’ stretchy there we would see nothing but belly.
Another side effect of only wearing low-rise pants is that most guys don’t know how to wear anything else. Look at this unfortunate example from the 2015 Met Gala featuring the usually sartorially resplendent George Clooney:
Oh George.
Formal wear pants should fit at the natural waist. George let his slip down to his hips, because that probably felt “better.” To fill the gap, he pulled his waistcoat down to – properly – cover the waistband of the pants. However, this destroyed the symmetry of the outfit, leaving a huge white band of waistcoat (which, if the pants were at the waist, would not even poke out beneath the ends of the jacket). Not only that, the pants now hang low and loose in the crotch and bunch up on his shoes, instead of falling smoothly. What I find particularly depressing, however, was that none of the event’s “fashion experts” even noticed.
Pleats. Deal with it.
I’m not saying that all pants on all guys should sit at the natural waist, but neither should all pants sit at the hips. If we really do live in an age of sartorial freedom, then we should let our body shapes and natural proportions guide our style choices, not fashion and trends.
Very interesting post, Pedro. It brings me to a question I’ve been meaning to ask you. I have a number of suits (3) made in British Hong Kong back in the 1980’s that are missing trousers, plus a number (again, 3) of English-made waistcoats. All seem to be cut to a height that demands English-Cut Trousers, high-rise with two forward facing pleats. I suspect that with braces, trousers cut with a natural waist will make these waistcoats fit like a dream (and extend my rather short legs).
So, do you recommend anyone here in Toronto that could make me trousers like this (and hopefully match the material of the suits)?
Thanks for the question, Scott (and apologies for the slow response). I agree, those garments necessitate high-rise pants, and almost any made-to-measure tailor can do that for you – Walter Beauchamp would be my suggestion. However, I would not recommend trying to match the material of the suits, mostly because it is impossible. You might find a very similar pattern or colour, but the fabric of the jackets will be different – because it has aged – and you’ll end up looking like you’re wearing a very cheap suit.
Instead, I recommend taking your garments to a tailor and asking for them to suggest a colour of pants that will compliment the garments (without even seeing them, I’d say probably grey flannel, which goes with almost anything).
Excellent article. “We should let our body shapes and natural proportions guide our style choices, not fashion and trends” … etch that on my tombstone.
Just what I have been hoping to hear. I am not alone! The available trousers these days are not comfortable. In fact, quite the opposite. When is somebody going to wake up and manufacture trousers again that actually fit, please God !?
I love this article! I am constantly looking for natural waist pants. I’m 5’7 with a 29″ waist and an inseam of about 30-31 (do they make 30.5?), which means that low rise pants make me look like a cartoon character! Which is exaggerated by the addition of the slim fit pant.
Probably the biggest disappointment is the sheer ubiquity of low rise pants, slim fit pants. I’ve searched far and wide for a brand that actually fits my waist, but outside of pants that are beyond affordable, I’ve been relegated to vintage stores and alterations.
Do you have a suggestion of brands or shops that might carry natural waist pant? Even “classic fit” seems to have moved further south in many brands. Bonus points for lower prices.
Thanks for the kind words, Chris. In terms of where to find trousers with a natural rise, I have mine all custom made as it is the only way to insure I get exactly what I want. It is more expensive than some off the rack, but I’d rather have a few pairs that really fit well than several that don’t. I have had some success with Jack Donnelly khakis, but I’m not sure if they are still in business. The shops I know of that seller higher-rise trousers (although I have not tried any myself) are J. Press in NYC and Cordings in London.
a simple question to google led me here but loved the article and agree. Why go through life being uncomfortable and unsightly just to conform to ephemeral and silly fashions?
I am not considered a fashion connoisseur, however I’m in my fifties and with all these low-rise pants I literally have to wear suspenders to keep them from sliding down my hips constantly. Then I’m a real mess! Very annoying!
Shopping thru men’s departments at the Mall, it’s a challenge to find even a few mid-rise or high-rise trousers. Lack of choice make for a bunch of fashion challenged and illiterate men. No wonder most guys don’t look well-dressed anymore, the proportions are off with all these low risers. Got to go to a store that carries classic menswear.
I’m not quite sure what you mean…? What I’m trying to say is that a short jacket, combined with low rise pants, accentuates an unflattering look, at least for me.
Great post! My issue these days is the fight between low rise pants and the button downs I have that are now “too short”. It’s impossible to keep a shirt tucked in properly unless I complete the good ‘ole underwear tuck and it’s annoying! I am now thinking about custom shirts…
Thank you, and good point, off the rack shirts are getting shorter. A higher rise trouser will help, but looking for a traditional shirt maker is a good option. Without having to go fully custom, I’d suggest Mercer and Sons. I have one of their OCBDs and it has classic proportions (long in the body, full at the waist and in the sleeves) with a proper soft collar.
I have had very good luck with Jack Donnelly, Berle…and I absolutely love O’Connell’s trousers. Yes, they are expensive, but you can buy them online and they fit really well. Go for the R rise with O’Connell’s, the regular rise with Berle, and the M3’s with Jack Donnelly and they will all be sitting right at your bellybutton. One last thing… a higher rise is so much more comfortable than low cut. I got rid of any low cuts I had even in shorts. Sheer comfort!
15 Comments
Scott Galley
June 29, 2015 at 10:54 am
Pedro Mendes
July 23, 2015 at 8:22 pm
Eashwar
April 8, 2016 at 7:25 am
Hans Frahm
March 15, 2017 at 5:23 pm
Chris G
March 26, 2017 at 4:37 pm
Pedro Mendes
March 26, 2017 at 5:09 pm
RS
May 8, 2017 at 10:26 pm
Lee
March 7, 2021 at 10:18 am
Pedro Mendes
March 7, 2021 at 8:18 pm
Andy
February 12, 2023 at 10:46 pm
Alex
November 21, 2021 at 10:28 pm
Pedro Mendes
November 22, 2021 at 9:50 am
Zach
March 8, 2022 at 2:10 pm
Pedro Mendes
March 9, 2022 at 10:25 am
Paul
August 23, 2023 at 3:17 pm
Very interesting post, Pedro. It brings me to a question I’ve been meaning to ask you. I have a number of suits (3) made in British Hong Kong back in the 1980’s that are missing trousers, plus a number (again, 3) of English-made waistcoats. All seem to be cut to a height that demands English-Cut Trousers, high-rise with two forward facing pleats. I suspect that with braces, trousers cut with a natural waist will make these waistcoats fit like a dream (and extend my rather short legs).
So, do you recommend anyone here in Toronto that could make me trousers like this (and hopefully match the material of the suits)?
S
Thanks for the question, Scott (and apologies for the slow response). I agree, those garments necessitate high-rise pants, and almost any made-to-measure tailor can do that for you – Walter Beauchamp would be my suggestion. However, I would not recommend trying to match the material of the suits, mostly because it is impossible. You might find a very similar pattern or colour, but the fabric of the jackets will be different – because it has aged – and you’ll end up looking like you’re wearing a very cheap suit.
Instead, I recommend taking your garments to a tailor and asking for them to suggest a colour of pants that will compliment the garments (without even seeing them, I’d say probably grey flannel, which goes with almost anything).
Excellent article. “We should let our body shapes and natural proportions guide our style choices, not fashion and trends” … etch that on my tombstone.
Just what I have been hoping to hear. I am not alone! The available trousers these days are not comfortable. In fact, quite the opposite. When is somebody going to wake up and manufacture trousers again that actually fit, please God !?
Hello there!
I love this article! I am constantly looking for natural waist pants. I’m 5’7 with a 29″ waist and an inseam of about 30-31 (do they make 30.5?), which means that low rise pants make me look like a cartoon character! Which is exaggerated by the addition of the slim fit pant.
Probably the biggest disappointment is the sheer ubiquity of low rise pants, slim fit pants. I’ve searched far and wide for a brand that actually fits my waist, but outside of pants that are beyond affordable, I’ve been relegated to vintage stores and alterations.
Do you have a suggestion of brands or shops that might carry natural waist pant? Even “classic fit” seems to have moved further south in many brands. Bonus points for lower prices.
Thanks for the kind words, Chris. In terms of where to find trousers with a natural rise, I have mine all custom made as it is the only way to insure I get exactly what I want. It is more expensive than some off the rack, but I’d rather have a few pairs that really fit well than several that don’t. I have had some success with Jack Donnelly khakis, but I’m not sure if they are still in business. The shops I know of that seller higher-rise trousers (although I have not tried any myself) are J. Press in NYC and Cordings in London.
a simple question to google led me here but loved the article and agree. Why go through life being uncomfortable and unsightly just to conform to ephemeral and silly fashions?
I am not considered a fashion connoisseur, however I’m in my fifties and with all these low-rise pants I literally have to wear suspenders to keep them from sliding down my hips constantly. Then I’m a real mess! Very annoying!
Much agreed. Even finding mid-rise is difficult.
Shopping thru men’s departments at the Mall, it’s a challenge to find even a few mid-rise or high-rise trousers. Lack of choice make for a bunch of fashion challenged and illiterate men. No wonder most guys don’t look well-dressed anymore, the proportions are off with all these low risers. Got to go to a store that carries classic menswear.
So a guy wearing a jacket that’s too small for him is “proof” low rise pants or sagging your pants doesn’t work? Interesting logic.
I’m not quite sure what you mean…? What I’m trying to say is that a short jacket, combined with low rise pants, accentuates an unflattering look, at least for me.
Great post! My issue these days is the fight between low rise pants and the button downs I have that are now “too short”. It’s impossible to keep a shirt tucked in properly unless I complete the good ‘ole underwear tuck and it’s annoying! I am now thinking about custom shirts…
Thank you, and good point, off the rack shirts are getting shorter. A higher rise trouser will help, but looking for a traditional shirt maker is a good option. Without having to go fully custom, I’d suggest Mercer and Sons. I have one of their OCBDs and it has classic proportions (long in the body, full at the waist and in the sleeves) with a proper soft collar.
I have had very good luck with Jack Donnelly, Berle…and I absolutely love O’Connell’s trousers. Yes, they are expensive, but you can buy them online and they fit really well. Go for the R rise with O’Connell’s, the regular rise with Berle, and the M3’s with Jack Donnelly and they will all be sitting right at your bellybutton. One last thing… a higher rise is so much more comfortable than low cut. I got rid of any low cuts I had even in shorts. Sheer comfort!