I often get emails from readers asking for style advice, which I’m only too happy to give. When I have something useful to say, of course. Recently, reader Matt and I had a back and forth about accessorising a business wardrobe and I felt our conversation would be helpful for more people to read. Here is a truncated version:
Matt’s initial question
For business, I typically wear medium grey suits with black oxfords four days a week. While staying somewhat reserved, how can I add colour to my socks, moving beyond the corresponding grey of the trousers?
My response
As you may know, I’m not a fan of “fun” socks. Personally, I like to enjoy everything I’m wearing. I also believe in understated elegance. I also don’t believe too much in the rule that your socks should be the same colour as your trousers or shoes. I don’t like a lot of contrast either, but as long as there’s a tonal balance, you’re fine.
I would recommend dark, solid socks to go with grey trousers and black shoes. You can never go wrong with navy which, while dark, has more depth than black. I’m also a big fan of dark burgundy and dark (forest) green. In addition, I have a few subtly striped socks (navy with dark burgundy or mid-blue stripes) that look classic and elegant.
This subtle kind of variation in dark blue socks (a mid-blue stripe) I believe remains elegant while introducing a bit of dash.
How do I pick my tie? Should the colour of my tie correspond with my socks? For business I usually wear a white forward point dress shirt and a white linen pocket square. So, I’m assuming I would need to coordinate with the tie. Or is that incorrect?
Currently, I have a handful of grenadine and knit ties, all solids (navy, burgundy, rich purple, forest green, etc). I’m certainly open to adding some variety in my neckwear. Nothing to fashion-forward, but certainly stylish while being appropriate for business.
My response
In terms of coordination, this is where the rubber really hits the road. I would never recommend matching your socks and tie. Too on the nose (trust me, I’ve tried). Instead, things should harmonise with each other. For instance, socks in a deep green worn with a tie in a similar dark shade of blue or burgundy would be very elegant. You can even pick up colours in each, like burgundy socks with a blue and burgundy striped tie.
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Grenadines and knit ties are fantastic for adding texture to an outfit. I’ve recently started expanding into rep striped ties from E.G. Cappelli, while I like the look of thesefromShibumi. I think they are all classic, elegant and simple enough to not get too much attention.
I have some lovely light-weight grenadines from E.G. Cappelli in Naples and some classic, heavy grenadines from Chipp2 in New York. Both highly recommended.
Pedro mentioned repp ties at the end, and I want to stress what a great option these are. They have been used for business almost for as long as the modern suit has (maybe Mr. Boyer could comment?), but anyway, they are appropiate and a fantastic way to add colour (always applying taste and restraint of course).
Also, cufflinks. They don’t have to be garish, and they can be a point of interest with room for personal significance. Same with watches, you just need to wear yours long enough that it can tell your story (don’t be afraid of scuffs or scratches, they build character!). The strap you choose for it can also be exploited for flair – ideally you have a few, having multiple straps is cheaper than having multiple watches, and they can really change the look.
I’m sure I’m forgetting other things, but I’ll just conclude with suit details. This can be a more expensive way to shake things up (compared to the aforementioned small items), but varying things like pocket style, the colour of buttons, shoulder construction and padding, drape or no drape; and small things like the height of the gorge and the angle of the notch in your lapels (or going with peak lapels) are subtle ways of having variation in your business wardrobe.
I hope this can be of help.
5 Comments
Cabbagemobilia
November 2, 2017 at 10:00 am
Pedro Mendes
November 2, 2017 at 10:14 am
Peter K
November 2, 2017 at 11:22 am
Peter B
November 11, 2017 at 12:41 pm
Pedro Mendes
November 11, 2017 at 1:58 pm
Where do you get your grenadine ties from?
I have some lovely light-weight grenadines from E.G. Cappelli in Naples and some classic, heavy grenadines from Chipp2 in New York. Both highly recommended.
For a medium grey suit I’d suggest trying a dress shirt in a light blue shade like sky blue.
It’s an easy and very business acceptable way to add a little colour.
And “tipped” pocket squares (i.e. white with a coloured border) would be another way to add a bit of subtle colour and interest.
Pedro mentioned repp ties at the end, and I want to stress what a great option these are. They have been used for business almost for as long as the modern suit has (maybe Mr. Boyer could comment?), but anyway, they are appropiate and a fantastic way to add colour (always applying taste and restraint of course).
Also, cufflinks. They don’t have to be garish, and they can be a point of interest with room for personal significance. Same with watches, you just need to wear yours long enough that it can tell your story (don’t be afraid of scuffs or scratches, they build character!). The strap you choose for it can also be exploited for flair – ideally you have a few, having multiple straps is cheaper than having multiple watches, and they can really change the look.
I’m sure I’m forgetting other things, but I’ll just conclude with suit details. This can be a more expensive way to shake things up (compared to the aforementioned small items), but varying things like pocket style, the colour of buttons, shoulder construction and padding, drape or no drape; and small things like the height of the gorge and the angle of the notch in your lapels (or going with peak lapels) are subtle ways of having variation in your business wardrobe.
I hope this can be of help.
Great insights and ideas, Peter, thank you for sharing.