Full disclosure: Sebastian made this coat for me at a discounted rate since we worked together on developing the prototype. As it turned out so well, he had the idea of a MTO offer, which I happily agreed to help with. However, I am receiving no fee or commission.
Last spring, when I mentioned to Hogtown tailor Sebastian Richard the trouble I was having finding a ready-to-wear balmacaan in Toronto, or even a coat maker who still had a pattern, he enthusiastically offered his services. He’d never made one but was keen to give it a try. This is a commendable quality I have rarely encountered with artisans: the desire to do something new. And it’s one of the reasons I have such respect for Sebastian.
I already had a vision for a traditional balmacaan before Sebastian started his work. Single breasted, to the knee, drapey, with a covered placket and storm collar. I even had the fabric in hand: a dense, bright gunclub tweed I’d found at Sultan’s Fine Fabrics, along with a brown satin lining.
It just so happens that Sebastian has in his possession a tailoring book, Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothiers, dating from the 1930s (first edition 1928) with a pattern for a “raglan.” This became the basis of the model he created. Before I get into the process, however, a bit more about this style of overcoat.
The reason I wanted a balmacaan in the first place relates to my recent shift from structured to more natural shoulders on my jackets. A natural shoulder takes the edge off, literally, the formality of a jacket or coat. The raglan sleeves and full cut of a traditional balmacaan give the coat an easy, comfortable look. Even a healthy does of swagger. Now, according to Wikipedia (quoting a GQ article) the sleeve construction makes the coat more water proof, as “the number of seams is reduced.” This was clearly written by someone who has never seen an actual balmacaan. It has more not fewer seams than a set in sleeve, and the fact that they run up and along the shoulder could invite more rain to enter, not less. A real reason for the raglan sleeve, it seems to me, is ease of motion, a necessity for a work coat originating in the Scottish countryside. As an aside, a friend from Newfoundland told me that “raglan” is used in that province as a synonym for overcoat, bespeaking the balmacaan’s iconic status.
Back to my coat. I will admit I strayed a bit from tradition on length. At the first basted fitting, Sebastian had cut the coat as per the original pattern so that it fell just past my kneecaps. Due to the coat’s more traditional A-line, it felt too flared. Plus, I wondered if it would be impractical for getting in and out of cars (the historical reason, I believe, for the almost complete disappearance of long overcoats). So I asked Sebastian to raise the hem to the top of my knee caps.
I will admit that when I first put the finished coat on, it felt over-sized. Even though I don’t wear skin tight clothes, I was just not accustomed to this more classic fit. It felt like I had a blanket draped over me. Which is exactly what it’s supposed to feel like, attested my friend Bruce Boyer. And he’s right. From Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothiers: “The garment should be of very generous dimensions, for it is part of the character of a Raglan to have a loose, easy hang.” Having worn the coat for a few weeks now, I have come to love its cape-like drapiness. It feels at once supremely casual as well as elegant in a louche, rakish way. Plus, in both sub-zero, wind-chill temperatures in Hogtown, as well as biting, wet winds in Vancouver, the coat provides a remarkable amount of warmth and protection.
After developing the pattern, and seeing how well it turned out, Sebastian decided he could make hand-tailored balmacaans on an ongoing basis, at set sizes. With my help, he’s picked out a few lovely, heavy tweeds from Dugdale Brothers that I think will make excellent coats. His fee for these is $1850 Canadian.
Made To Order offer
As an exclusive for Hogtown Rake readers, Sebastian is offering a balmacaan in a Dugdale Brothers gunclub tweed (that is slightly darker than mine) for only $1400 Canadian. These coats will be straight-to-finish (no fittings) MTO at standard sizes. But act fast as this offer is limited to five coats.
To order your own hand tailored balmacaan, simply email Sebastian at info@sebastianrichard.com. (He will begin production once he has orders for three coats).
As my coat was a prototype, there will be a few small tweaks. We realised that the number of front buttons is not quite right: for the new coats, there will be one fewer, creating more space between the smaller button at the collar and the four large main buttons. You can also have the option, if you wish, of a regular closure (with all five buttons showing when done up) instead of a fly front (covered closure). Also, Sebastian will take a little bit of fabric out of the sleeves and cuffs as I find them a tad too voluminous.
A special note on the photography, shot at the University of Toronto by Andrew Tan Wei Aun . I was hoping for a contemporary take on “Brideshead Revisited.” In other words, collegiate, classic and approachable. Andrew conveyed that vision perfectly.
Yes, this offer is hand tailored which, the same as my jacket, is a mix of hand and machine stitching. Nothing pre-assembled or made off-site.
Curious what you’d like to see for cloth, a different pattern for instance? Sebastian is able to do anything, of course, but only this cloth is part of this offer. We wanted to find something as similar to my cloth as possible.
Yes, my coat has a single vent in the back. I’m sure Sebastian can discuss the idea of a reversible balmacaan, feel free to get in touch, but it obviously would not be part of this MTO offer.
What weight is the tweed that you used, and what would you recommend for a Toronto winter. I know the weather can fluctuate wildly, but maybe you can speak to what you’ve found useful. 15oz? 18oz? 28oz? 32oz?
I never got the actual weight, but I’m guessing it’s around 20oz. Which is fine down to about -10, with a few layers underneath. It’s especially good at shielding against cold wind and sleet. I’m able to wear it almost all winter except on the coldest days, or when I’m outside for a long time, when I switch to a parka. Hope that helps!
I was elated to discover your post as I’ve spent the past week searching online for the origins of Yasuto Kamoshita’s raglan worn in the above photo. I’ve accumulated several images of the same jacket in an attempt to have a local tailor here in San Francisco make one similar to his coat but customised to my body type.
Out of curiosity, do you have a name and potentially a number for the houndstooth fabric in the storm collar photo? It’s a gorgeous palette of colours.
I hope my post is helpful in some way, but sadly, I don’t have any information on the fabric. I bought it at Sultan’s in Toronto but do not know its origins.
If you are ever in the UK be sure to go vintage shopping. You can often find similar coats for less than £150 in impeccable condition. Many look hardly worn with no wear to the inner lining. The old school ones often have a blanket lining making them exceptionally warm and they are made from old school tweed which generally heavier and more robust.
For anyone looking for a decent balmacaan it’s worth looking at vintage dunn and Co overcoats. I purchased one for £120 and it’s probably the most wonderful tweed I have stumbled across, in a multicoloured Donegal fleck, and is very robust and in immaculate condition. At that price I cant imagine justifying the money for a bespoke coat. Especially for such an unstructured design. I see the benefit of a bespoke double breasted overcoat but not a balmacaan.
That’s another great recommendation, but I think there are plenty of good reasons to get a custom overcoat. The major issue I had is that in my part of the world it isn’t easy to find a good quality traditional overcoat. Plus, by going custom, you can pick the fabric that’s right for you and any features you might like. You also don’t have to worry about the issues that come with second hand clothing, such as wear and cleanliness
12 Comments
Jack
January 16, 2019 at 1:05 pm
Pedro Mendes
January 16, 2019 at 2:10 pm
Tim
January 20, 2019 at 1:21 pm
Pedro Mendes
January 20, 2019 at 3:30 pm
Ted
November 20, 2021 at 10:03 pm
Pedro Mendes
November 22, 2021 at 9:48 am
Matthew
December 5, 2021 at 11:42 pm
Pedro Mendes
December 6, 2021 at 9:55 am
Oliver Kenny
November 25, 2023 at 6:40 pm
Pedro Mendes
November 28, 2023 at 8:30 pm
Oliver
December 2, 2023 at 1:13 pm
Pedro Mendes
December 3, 2023 at 3:24 pm
Is the MTO sizing still fully hand done or only partly?
Price seems reasonable if it’s fully hand done, I wish the cloth selection was better though.
Yes, this offer is hand tailored which, the same as my jacket, is a mix of hand and machine stitching. Nothing pre-assembled or made off-site.
Curious what you’d like to see for cloth, a different pattern for instance? Sebastian is able to do anything, of course, but only this cloth is part of this offer. We wanted to find something as similar to my cloth as possible.
Pedro,
Does your coat have a vent in the back? Also would be interesting to see if Sebastian would make a reversible balmacaan.
Yes, my coat has a single vent in the back. I’m sure Sebastian can discuss the idea of a reversible balmacaan, feel free to get in touch, but it obviously would not be part of this MTO offer.
What weight is the tweed that you used, and what would you recommend for a Toronto winter. I know the weather can fluctuate wildly, but maybe you can speak to what you’ve found useful. 15oz? 18oz? 28oz? 32oz?
I never got the actual weight, but I’m guessing it’s around 20oz. Which is fine down to about -10, with a few layers underneath. It’s especially good at shielding against cold wind and sleet. I’m able to wear it almost all winter except on the coldest days, or when I’m outside for a long time, when I switch to a parka. Hope that helps!
I was elated to discover your post as I’ve spent the past week searching online for the origins of Yasuto Kamoshita’s raglan worn in the above photo. I’ve accumulated several images of the same jacket in an attempt to have a local tailor here in San Francisco make one similar to his coat but customised to my body type.
Out of curiosity, do you have a name and potentially a number for the houndstooth fabric in the storm collar photo? It’s a gorgeous palette of colours.
I hope my post is helpful in some way, but sadly, I don’t have any information on the fabric. I bought it at Sultan’s in Toronto but do not know its origins.
If you are ever in the UK be sure to go vintage shopping. You can often find similar coats for less than £150 in impeccable condition. Many look hardly worn with no wear to the inner lining. The old school ones often have a blanket lining making them exceptionally warm and they are made from old school tweed which generally heavier and more robust.
Great recommendation! Many thanks 🙏🏼
For anyone looking for a decent balmacaan it’s worth looking at vintage dunn and Co overcoats. I purchased one for £120 and it’s probably the most wonderful tweed I have stumbled across, in a multicoloured Donegal fleck, and is very robust and in immaculate condition. At that price I cant imagine justifying the money for a bespoke coat. Especially for such an unstructured design. I see the benefit of a bespoke double breasted overcoat but not a balmacaan.
That’s another great recommendation, but I think there are plenty of good reasons to get a custom overcoat. The major issue I had is that in my part of the world it isn’t easy to find a good quality traditional overcoat. Plus, by going custom, you can pick the fabric that’s right for you and any features you might like. You also don’t have to worry about the issues that come with second hand clothing, such as wear and cleanliness