The “new” Brooks Brothers button-down

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With little fanfare Brooks Brothers shook the world of Ivy League style a few weeks ago. Out of nowhere they released a new version of their classic button-down shirt, restoring many of the features that made the shirt a success for over one hundred years. My excitement was tempered, however, because I have a strained relationship with Brooks Brothers; were they pandering to the traditionalists or sincerely embracing their heritage? I had to buy the shirt so I could judge it for myself. But before I get to that, a bit of the shirt’s evolution for the uninitiated which explains why this latest update is so significant:

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Brooks Brothers oxford cloth button down was a pullover shirt, with a buttoned opening at the top to slip your head through. It featured a soft, unlined collar that was about 3.5″ long and, of course, buttoned at the tips. While there was no pocket, the shirt had side gussets. It was soon replaced with a 5-button “coat style” shirt, what most of us think of as a shirt today (although it was much longer). In the coming decades a 6th button was added as well as a locker loop and a button on the back of the collar – which may or may not have been there from the start. In the 1960s a breast pocket was added. The biggest change was made to the shirt in the 1990s when the button at the back of the collar and the locker loop were removed and, unfortunately, an unfused lining was added to the collars, which themselves were shortened about a quarter of an inch. For many aficionados, this ruined the shirt. It no longer had a soft, unruly collar, signalling the wearer’s nonchalance. Instead, the collar was stiffer and held its shape.

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The new “old” Brooks Brothers collar roll.

Whether reacting to the complaints of traditionalists or simply trying to revive a struggling product with an infusion of heritage, Brooks Brothers has done the right thing and restored much of what was loved and successful about this shirt. While the button on the back of the collar and the locker loop have not returned, the side gussets have. The shirt is longer and the front pocket is gone. But by far the the most significant and welcome change is in the collar, placket and cuffs. The lining is gone. The shirt’s softness and personality are back. And don’t underestimate this change; it has a dramatic effect not only on the feel but the look of the entire shirt.

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I had assumed the unlined collar would mostly impact the roll, being fuller and more carefree. But once I put on the shirt, especially with a tie, I noticed that because of the relatively light-weight oxford cloth, the collar folds and buckles all the way around. This really does give the shirt a much more relaxed feel than the lined version. It looks at once clean and professional as well as carefree and nonchalant.

The significant change can be best seen in the collar.

The significant change between “old” and “new” can be best seen in the collar.

The other changes are also significant. The softer placket and cuffs make the shirt more comfortable and the added length means it tucks in very securely. I’m not sure the gussets actually serve any purpose but they are a nice touch. Some folks have complained about losing the pocket, which is a staple of sport shirts, but I’m not bothered. I prefer shirts without pockets anyway and I appreciate that without the pocket the shirt is closer to its heritage, when it was meant as a sporty dress shirt, not a dressy sport shirt.

Unchanged from the earliest version of the shirt is the lowered cuff button.

Unchanged from the earliest version of the shirt is the lowered cuff button.

My only disappointment is the price, which is about 50% higher than the previous version. While I realize there has been an upgrade – lovely, slender mother-of-pearl buttons replacing plastic – that does not account for the price surge. The shirts are still made, as they were before the price change, of 100% American Supima cotton in the US, so materials can’t be the reason either. I can only assume the shirt is now considered a “premium” product for marketing reasons and priced as such. And that, sadly, goes against the history of the shirt. The Brooks Brothers button-down was always a well-made garment at a reasonable price, like much of the Brooks catalogue. Setting the price high enough (just under $200 in Canada) that it begins to enter the luxury market does mean one thing: us obsessives need to put our money where are mouths are. If we want heritage and tradition, we’re going to have to pay for it.

I did and I’m very, very happy with the results.