Saving the ascot from the sartorial wastebin

This image is what I think comes to mind for most people when they hear the word “ascot.” Big, bold and over the top. They evoke images of yachts and Thurston Howell. And they seem way, way out of fashion. Ascots were huge in the 70s – literally – and haven’t really recovered. In many places, they have all but disappeared. That’s why I was pleasantly surprised a few weeks ago in Paris to find so many ascots being worn on men’s necks as well as for sale at Charvet. It warmed my heart because I honestly believe that ascots need to make a comeback, especially as more guys are going tie-less.

I know that many of my arguments about dressing well, investing in and caring for your wardrobe fall on deaf ears with the wider public. But I suspect this one will be my least popular idea, even amongst those concerned with style. Ascots are almost in the same category as monocles and spats for some people. I think that’s a shame because ascots are inherently casual and elegant. All it takes, I think, for ascots to make a comeback is one simple change: how they are knotted.

As you can see above, when I wear ascots they do not puff up and out of my shirt. I wear them more like neckerchiefs, but tucked in. And so why don’t I simply wear neckerchiefs instead? They are purpose built to be a small, nondescript bit of silk at the neck. The reason I prefer to wear an ascot is two-fold: ascots come in a greater variety of colour and pattern and because of their construction, they have more structure than a neckerchief, which means they are more substantial around the neck and easier to tie. And the trick, for me, in making an ascot work today is in the knot. Instead of the classic knots that conclude with a large amount of the fabric puffing out, I tie my ascots with a four-in-hand, like I do most of my ties. This produces a rather small knot that fits perfectly in that bit of space left by an open shirt collar. It also serves a practical purpose, adding a bit of warmth at the neck, along with a touch of colour and style.

I got this idea of knotting my ascots differently from none other than famed men’s style writer G. Bruce Boyer. When I first met Bruce in person, last spring here in Toronto, he was wearing as ascot. No surprise there as he’s long been an advocate. But when I looked closely I noticed that his was tied in a rather small knot. I know that the picture above makes his ascot look puffy but in person it was much more understated. (And just think how much better my neck would have looked with a touch of colour?). What I also took from the way Bruce wore his ascot was how casual it looked. He wasn’t wearing one for a soiree or sipping cognac at a bar; it was everyday wear, a step down from a tie but still sharp.

And that, for me, is the biggest reason to bring back the ascot. I know that things are getting more and more casual and neckties are disappearing. But we aren’t replacing them with anything. A shirt, one with a high-quality, well-made collar, can look quite nice open at the neck. But a bit of colour, a bit of silk, just elevates the look. And in the fall and winter, you’ll appreciate the extra warmth.

So, who’s with me?

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