Styling the Marol x Hogtown Rake button-down shirt

Now that it’s been a month since the debut of the Marol x Hogtown Rake button-down shirt collaboration, I thought I’d return to the images from that post to discuss the looks I came up with. Marol and I aimed to create a shirt that would be versatile, going from casual to dressy while maintaining a level of elegance and sharpness. Not only do I think we achieved that goal in spades, I’ve found that I want to wear this shirt under almost any condition. It elevates anything I am wearing. And that is the result of the supreme craftsmanship built into this shirt: subtle features like stitching, collar shape and seam construction that are more than the sum of their parts.

Ivy style

Paired with a doeskin, flapped patch pocket blazer, school tie, pocket square and full rise khaki trousers.

Being a button-down made of oxford cloth, this look was the most natural to start with as it evokes the Ivy League heyday that inspired the shirt. I will be the first to admit, however, that this shirt is not a true OCBD as defined by Ivy League purists. Not only are the buttons hidden but other traditional features like a full placket, box pleat and locker loop aren’t there. However, I think this shirt has more in common with Ivy League sport shirts than any other classic style and I think this outfit proves it. In fact, the long, full collar evokes a much earlier era of the OCBD for me, when collars were big, their points further down on the chest than most shirts today.

In the garden

Paired with light-weight cotton trousers, panama hat and neckerchief.

Since this button-down is an elegant take on a classic sport shirt, I wanted to try wearing it in a totally casual way. I was curious to see if it would work without a tie, even without a jacket and paired with relaxed and casual accessories. And I think it does work, very well. The higher collar and subtle roll mean the open collar frames the neckerchief perfectly. And the refined, luxuriant features of the shirt – expert finishing, mother of pearl buttons, perfect fit in the shoulders – add a bit of elegance to an otherwise laid back ensemble.

Smart casual

Paired with silk/cashmere sport coat, sunglasses and linen pocket square.

Somewhere between the casual and the dressy is this look, with a jacket but no tie. Again, the higher collar band and button-down shape, along with the firm construction, mean the collar stands up nicely under a jacket. The fineness of the fabric – a royal oxford of 2 ply and 120×120 per inch – definitely adds the “smart” to this casual look. And in making the shirt, I requested a high second button on the front placket so that when the top button was undone, the collar would not spread too far. An added advantage is that when the top two buttons are undone, which would usually reveal too much he-vage on other shirts, there is just the right balance of laid-back and professional.

Suited up

Paired with wool/cashmere suit, wool challis tie and gold lapel chain.

This shirt brings together my love of traditional Ivy with Marol’s northern Italian style and it was the latter that inspired this combination. While not specifically based on the tailoring of one region or another, for me this suit evokes the soft construction of southern Italy as well as the more structured shoulder and collar of the north – with a bit of British tweed thrown in for good measure. The tie, while Neapolitan, is made of English wool and is both light and sturdy. Here, worn with a suit and tie, the shirt’s inherent dressiness shines through.

I am please to offer the shirt for sale through The Hogtown Rake for $485 Canadian ($355 US / €325). The shirt is made to Marol’s exacting “classic” ready-to-wear specifications which include a high armhole and a medium slim fit (neither tight nor overly loose). It comes in five sizes:

15″ (38cm) – Small
15.5 (39) – Medium
16 (41) – Large
16.5 (42) – X-large
17 (43) – XX-large

Here are the exact measurements of each size in the classic fit:

To order the shirt, please email me and we will proceed from there (worldwide shipping included but not import duties, payment through PayPal). If you are interested in the set of extra collars and cuffs for an additional €75 or handsewn initials for €15 per letter, please mention that in the email.