My four wardrobes

A couple of years ago, in writing about my approach to dressing casually, I mentioned in passing my four wardrobes. They are: formal, tailored, casual and workwear. I wanted to explain those categories and offer some examples, as a way of illustrating how in building my wardrobes, I am expressing an approach to dress. And more than that, an approach to everyday life.

Formalwear

My black tie kit is the pinnacle of all my clothing (as I wrote in an essay for A Suitable Wardrobe). It is not workwear or casual, of course, and due to its simplicity and stark black and white, it is not simply tailored either. It stands alone as my most formal outfit and therefore it rarely leaves the closet. Yet it’s a great comfort to know I am prepared for such events.

This end of my wardrobe does not blend with any of the others, as no part of it can we swapped out; in fact, I have a separate shirt, bow tie, braces, socks and even laces (flat satin) that I only wear with black tie. Making the outfit, and the event I attend in it, all the more special.

Tailored

I categorize “tailored” as centring on a jacket and tie, not that all the items are necessarily created by a tailor. It includes suits, sport jackets, wool trousers, neckwear and fine leather shoes. Lately I find that I am wearing suits less often while really enjoying the versatility and sharpness of a jacket and odd trousers. If it wasn’t for this alternative, I would rarely wear tailored outfits as suits are relegated, more and more, to formal or business events. Except for more casual suits in tweed, corduroy or linen, of course.

My tailored wardrobe blends somewhat with smart casual, as some of the items can be dressed down or swapped out (a turtleneck instead of a shirt and tie or a cardigan instead of a jacket, for instance).

Smart Casual

I wanted to add the descriptor of “smart” to my casual wardrobe title not to be snarky but to point out that this category is closer to my tailored one than to my workwear. By which I mean I take the same care with my casual wardrobe—when it comes to quality, fit and combination—as I do with my tailored. The big difference is that it is a step down in formality, in my eyes anyway. Smart casual includes button-down shirts, knitwear like cardigans and turtlenecks, trousers such as cords and chinos, boots, derbies and loafers.

These two categories, tailored and smart casual, have a lot of crossover. For instance, I’m a big fan of wearing “casual” ties (which may seem like an oxymoron) like knits. This is the space where tailored is dressed down or casual is dressed up.

Thinking about my day to day, this cross over area is what I wear the most. This winter, for instance, my favourite combination has been a merino turtleneck, wide whale corduroys and a tweed sport jacket.

Workwear

There is of course one more wardrobe which rarely if ever appears on this site or my Instagram. Not because I’m ashamed or embarrassed but because it doesn’t relate to dressing better: workwear. And by “workwear” I don’t mean fashionable jeans. I mean clothes I wear when I’m actually working, like renovating my house, mowing the lawn, jogging or backwoods camping (the latter two not technically work, but you get my drift). This is clothing specifically for a purpose: to get dirty or be active. Old trousers and graphic print tshirts are relegated to messy stuff. Athletic wear for camping and running. This wardrobe does not cross over at all with my others since it is activity specific and not purchased with style, quality or fit as primary concerns.

I didn’t set out to build four wardrobes. I’m obsessive and detail oriented, but not to that extreme. I simply realized recently, upon reflection, that my clothes was nicely compartmentalized. And that compartmentalization is all based on an approach I aspired to over a decade ago: to dress for the occasion. To keep things special not only because of the event and the people, but also what I’m wearing. So that a wedding, a business meeting, going for coffee and dry-walling my house look different, to help them feel more different and special.

I’m curious to hear, in the comments below, if your wardrobe can be separated along similar lines?

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