Heinrich Dinkelacker penny loafers review

Full disclosure: this pair of Wien loafers was provided by Heinrich Dinkelacker for review purposes.

When a new company comes across your radar claiming “heritage,” how do you know they are the real deal? Can you trust their website? Or their Instagram? If you’re lucky, you can turn to some good ol’ fashioned sources: friends and acquaintances.

When German company Heinrich Dinkelacker first approached me, I was skeptical (I get emails about heritage brands every week). They weren’t a complete unknown, I had heard of HD before – they were kind of internet famous in the #menswear world for their heavy Budepsters. But is the company today true to their heritage? I asked someone in the know, Bernhard Roetzel, Germany’s leading voice in classic men’s style. He gave HD his stamp of approval, both as a company and for their products. Bernhard’s recommendation was more than enough for me.

While the specific shoes I requested were being made, I spoke with Rezső Kuti, the company’s manager of sales and operations, to better understand their history and process. I learned that while HD was founded 140 years ago, there are two key dates in their timeline: the 1960s and 2016.

Up until the 60s, Rezső tells me, all of HD’s shoes were made in Germany. But the company was finding it harder and harder to attract skilled workers in Stuttgart due to the auto sector. The city was known as “the cradle of the automobile,” a home base for a number of automakers. Young people were joining the auto industry en masse, which was probably more lucartive and exciting than shoe making. HD was forced to move production and they chose Budapest, on the other side of the Iron Curtain. The city’s long history in making shoes, especially the heavy-soled “budapester,” dovetailed nicely with HD’s aesthetic. There was also an economic benefit, as production was (and is) cheaper in Hungary. After the fall of the Soviet Union in 1989, HD was able to buy and manage their own factory in Hungary, which continues today.

The other significant date in HD’s history is 2016. That is when the company (which ceased being family-run in 2004) was taken over by Shoepassion, a German brand known for inexpensive, fashion-focused shoes made in Spain, Portugal and Italy. Rezső tells me that Shoepassion’s resources will give HD the stability it needs to focus on their traditional production and classic shoe lines. At the same time, the brand will try to grow, including an online store and expanding their retail presence. I’ll return to that point after discussing the shoes in more detail.

Shortly after our conversation, my shoes arrived. I had chosen the “Wien Plain TC” penny loafers partially because it’s summer, partially because they were the most appealing offering, with a classic, simple design. Rezső explained that “Wien,” meaning Vienna, comes from the Dinkelacker family’s penchant for naming their lasts after cities. Beyond that, I don’t think there’s necessarily a connection.

The Wien last features a rounded toe with ample room at the forefoot. It is listed as a “G” width, which seems unique to Germany, and is a touch narrower than the more standard “E.” Having the shoe in hand I can confirm that while on the wider side, the last still has an elegant shape; but definitely round, not pointy. I typically wear a size 9.5UK on a standard last. For these penny loafers, I requested a size 9UK and I made the right choice. The shoes fit remarkably well right out of the box. In fact, after wearing them for three long outings, the break in is minimal. There is comfort in the instep and forefoot but my foot is held secure. Most importantly, for me, the heel fits well. I could perhaps handle even tighter all around, but I suspect another half size would have been too tight.

Construction-wise, from what I can see and feel, the shoes are exceptional, with clean, even stitching throughout. They are robust, with a firm toe cap and heel, but not heavy. Despite the company’s early influence being English, I’d say this shoe seems more American than anything else: roomy yet elegant. I’d compare the last and construction to the Alden loafers I own.

The “TC” in the name refers to the leather, Tuscan Calf. One way I judge a leather’s quality is how easy it is to work with when it comes to moisturizing and polishing. This leather is excellent, taking a shine quite well. The colour, Whiskey, looks like a patina but Rezső assures me this effect is realized in the tannery. It is relatively subtle with a reddish hue.

HD’s leathers come from a variety of European tanneries. Their Tuscan calf is sourced from the Italian tanneries Moretti and Russo di Casandrino. Some of their shoes are crafted from German water buffalo or nubuck from Weinheimer, box calf from France’s Tanneries du Puy or shell cordovan from Horween. The shoes are hand-lasted and hand-welted by a group of 25 shoemakers.

These penny loafers can be had for approximately $760 CDN, a great price for this level of hand work and quality of leather. A price comparable to Alden and Crockett & Jones (which aren’t all necessarily hand-welted…which doesn’t necessarily make a better shoe, but still.)

Which brings me to the future for HD. There are an awful lot of shoe brands out there, many competing for a similar customer. Someone who wants quality, durability, elegance, heritage – for less than $1000. HD have a lot going for them, especially the constrution and quality which I rate as high or higher than similar priced shoes. I also think their emphasis on comfort, with slightly wider lasts, will appeal to the North American market

The challenge might be overcoming their fame for heavy, triple-soled “sh*tkickers.” While HD does offer some heavier shoes, most of their selection come in a more moderate weight. And while I applaud their online store, I think a key to their success in North America will be a retail presence, which will allow people to not only test out the shoes, but experience the quality of the construction and leather first hand.

This pair of HD Wien Plain TC penny loafers can be found online here.