I am off to Havana later this month for a mini-vacation and with that and the recent death of Fidel Castro, Cuba is much on my mind. So for the next couple of weeks, my blog goes south (literally, not figuratively). Versions of this story originally appeared in UK Cigar Scene magazine, on CBC Radio’s “The World This Weekend” and the Shopify “TGIM” podcast.
Emiliano Nelson – known simply as “Nelson” – is the only maker of custom guayabera shirts in Cuba. They’ve been worn here for centuries, usually made of cotton or linen. And Nelson’s are among the best on the island, he believes, because they are unique, “I’m making the guayabera in my own style, with my own design. The lines and the patterns are more contemporary, a guayabera that has a more fitted look.”
Like a lot of the other new entrepreneurs in Cuba, granted licences to operate small businesses by recent government reforms, Nelson does not face the challenge of demand. His shop at 22 Villegas, between Tejadillo and Empedrado in Old Havana, has plenty of customers. His challenge is supply. He tells me that he gets some fabric from Panama or Italy “but it’s difficult to get.” Plus, Cuba doesn’t make its own linen and the local cotton is not to Nelson’s standards.
There is no Cuban wholesale market for materials. Because of strict state controls, Nelson can’t simply call up an overseas supplier and order bolts of fabric. He must rely on a slow and sometimes inefficient government bureaucracy to import on his behalf. One solution Nelson has found is to get friends to bring cloth into the country for him. He even resorts to the age-old tailoring tradition of having clients bring in their own supplies.
When it comes to his tools of the trade, Nelson’s scissors are from the 1930s, his presses even older than that. The trick to surviving in Cuba, he says, is to get by with whatever you can find, in business or elsewhere – and he should know, he’s been at it for over 20 years.
He was allowed to start his business in the early 90s because of the artisanal and historic nature of his work. At the time, the shirts had almost died out in Cuba. Nelson became one of the country’s first private entrepreneurs and he never looked back. “A couple of years ago the state made the guayabera the official attire of Cuba, the official dress for protocol and important events,” Nelson tells me. “This has allowed the guayabera to go back to what it was in the past.”
Now the guayabera is back in Cuba and Nelson a star. His customers include foreign celebrities like Danny Glover and Sting. He even made a shirt for Fidel himself. Transforming a symbol of Cuba’s economic past… into its future.
My E. Nelson guayabera (ready-to-wear, not custom).
Here is a version of this story I produced for CBC Radio:
Up to a point. The shirts are typically made of cotton, linen or a blend (as well as polyester, but we we’ll ignore those) and usually have four pockets and a lot of ornamentation in the form of pleats running down the front of the shirt, over the pockets. There are also usually many (non-functioning) buttons on a guayabera, on all the pockets (even the base of the bottom pockets), on the side vents (these sometimes work) and, strangely, at the collar bone where the front pleats meet the shoulder panel. The shirts usually have a lido collar (not meant to be buttoned at the collar) and can be short or long sleeved. All that said, what makes Nelson so special is that he plays with this form, experimenting with all the traditional elements while still keeping to the spirit of the guayabera.
As far as I’ve seen, traditionally guayaberas were white and off-white. Blue became quite popular and now they come in any colour you can imagine – I’m quite fond of the green linen I have.
5 Comments
Michael Nevin
December 3, 2016 at 11:37 pm
416expat
December 5, 2016 at 12:29 pm
Pedro Mendes
December 6, 2016 at 10:32 am
Nancy
December 8, 2016 at 11:28 am
Pedro Mendes
December 8, 2016 at 2:54 pm
Enjoy!
Here’s a question: what makes a guayabera a guayabera? Is it simply a might cotton shirt with 3 extra pockets?
Up to a point. The shirts are typically made of cotton, linen or a blend (as well as polyester, but we we’ll ignore those) and usually have four pockets and a lot of ornamentation in the form of pleats running down the front of the shirt, over the pockets. There are also usually many (non-functioning) buttons on a guayabera, on all the pockets (even the base of the bottom pockets), on the side vents (these sometimes work) and, strangely, at the collar bone where the front pleats meet the shoulder panel. The shirts usually have a lido collar (not meant to be buttoned at the collar) and can be short or long sleeved. All that said, what makes Nelson so special is that he plays with this form, experimenting with all the traditional elements while still keeping to the spirit of the guayabera.
What colours do they come in, traditionally and now?
As far as I’ve seen, traditionally guayaberas were white and off-white. Blue became quite popular and now they come in any colour you can imagine – I’m quite fond of the green linen I have.